http://www.sciencenews.org/20000506/food.asp
Week of May 6, 2000; Vol. 157, No. 19
Chocolate therapies (with recipe for Janet's Chocolate Medicinal Mousse Pie)
By Janet Raloff
Chocolate has made news over
the past few months for the
apparently heart-healthy
properties of some of its
components�antioxidants known
as flavonoids (see Chocolate
Hearts.) These findings, together
with data reported several years
ago on the treats' ability to turn on
opiate receptors in the brain (SN:
10/12/96, p. 235), threaten to
transform the image of chocolate
from dietary vice to herbal
medicine.
To meso-American anthropologists, however, the idea that
chocolate can be health-promoting is old hat�very old hat.
Revered by cultures throughout the Americas for some 3000
years, chocolate has been in cultivation since at least the time
of Christ. Referred to for much of that time as a "food of the
gods," this botanical product has occasionally, in centuries past,
even stood in for currency�its value on par with gold's. For
much of this illustrious past, chocolate has also been a
venerated staple of the herbal pharmacopoeia, observes Louis
E. Grivetti of the University of California, Davis.
At the American Association for the Advancement of Science
meeting last month in Washington D.C., Grivetti shared findings
from his new historical investigation of chocolate's medicinal
history. His team turned up medical texts describing chocolate
therapies dating back to 1522. Though written by Europeans,
they described remedies brought back by explorers who had
visited the New World. So compelling were their reports that
soon Europe was importing huge quantities of cocoa beans to
serve a growing market for therapeutic chocolate.
The earliest texts suggested that cocoa was merely a vehicle for
helping make less palatable medicines go down. Soon,
however, it was regarded as an active ingredient in cures being
offered for a broad range of ails.
Healers pounded cocoa beans into a paste. Diluted into a drink,
they gave it to people suffering from fevers, liver disease, and
kidney disorders. Physicians prescribed ground beans, mixed
with resin, to cure dysentary. A cocoa drink was reputed to
foster needed weight gain�especially if augmented with
ground maize. Hot chocolate was even prescribed as a laxative
and aid to digestion.
By the early 1600s, European researchers were reporting
indications that chocolate may affect moods. Grivetti found a
1631 treatise by the Spanish physician/surgeon Antoino
Comenero de Ledesma, for instance, that said chocolate
makes people amiable, and "incited consumers to . . .
lovemaking."
Indeed, Grivetti says, because chocolate was perceived as an
intoxicant, it was deemed unsuitable for women or children�at
least until the 14th century.
By Ledesma's time, however,
healers realized that chocolate
was not for men only. A love
potion, drinking chocolate helped
women conceive, he reported. If
hot cocoa was drunk during
pregnancy, it helped smooth labor
and delivery.
Three decades later, Henry
Stubb published a monograph
that claimed a drink made by
mixing chocolate and vanilla
would strengthen the brain and
womb. Mixed with Jamaican
pepper, chocolate was supposed
to stimulate menstrual flow.
Combined with resin, it was
reputed to boost breast-milk
production. Cocoa-bean oils even
helped heal a nursing mother's
cracked nipples.
Few conditions aren't improved
by chocolate, according to the
texts that Grivetti's team of
scholars uncovered and
translated. The botanical product
was used to treat tuberculosis,
toothaches, and ulcers. It was
alleged to cure itches, repel
tumors, and foster sleep. By the
1680s, reports emerged that
chocolate could restore energy
after a day of hard labor, alleviate
lung inflammation, or strengthen
the heart. By the 1800s, cocoa
was being mixed with ground
amber dust to relieve hangovers.
Combined with other ingredients,
it became the basis of
treatments for syphilis,
hemmorhoids, and intestinal
parasites.
In traditional healing recipes, chocolate often included little or no
sweetening. Moreover, the Native American view of medicine in
which chocolate therapies evolved was somewhat different from
that practiced in Europe. Rather than illness being caused by
disease, Native Americans viewed health as the state of being
in balance with the environment. Losing that balance�perhaps
through a perturbed diet�could create sickness. Chocolate
was viewed as one means for restoring lost balance.
European adventurers often sampled the native cocoa-based
drinks with scorn, according to Historicus in his late-19th century
book, Cocoa: All About It. These beverages, frequently laced
with cinnamon, chili peppers, oregano, or cloves, struck the
European palate as vile.
Travelers nonetheless brought home recipes for the strange
drinks, together with tales of their reputed therapeutic prowess.
Sugar crept into the recipes, and almost at once, Europeans
developed a huge appetite for chocolate. Today, some of the
most prized chocolates emerge from European candy factories.
In the United States, per capita chocolate consumption already
exceeds 12 pounds per year. Europeans tend to eat even more.
Though physicians no longer prescribe chocolate as aids to
digestion, lung ailments, or ulcers, research suggests that
self-medicating ourselves with at least some of these
products�especially those made from dark chocolate�may
achieve real benefits, especially in maintaining cardiovascular
health.
While this should not be interpreted as reason to overindulge in
these fat-rich confections, Norman K. Hollenberg of the Harvard
Medical School in Boston believes the growing body of
nutritional studies of chocolate are strong enough to argue,
"People should not feel guilty about eating it."
Janet's Chocolate Medicinal Mousse Pie
Serves 8 to 12
This recipe, a household favorite, wows guests who�even after
finishing a sinfully rich slice of pie�never suspect that the main
ingredient is tofu. In the past, I've always billed the dessert as
heart-healthy, based on studies suggesting that soy products
can offer cardiovascular and anti-cancer benefits. In fact, I
adapted this recipe from a fattier and more heavily sweetened
version that was served 6 years ago to me and other attendees
of the First International Symposium on the Role of Soy in
Preventing and Treating Chronic Disease.
Despite the pie's soy base, however, I often felt a twinge of guilt
over the heavy dose of chocolate present in each slice.
With the newly emerging data on dark chocolate's flavonoids, I
now feel less self-conscious about serving this popular dessert.
I can point out that its bounty of chocolate may actually
contribute to the pie's offering of a cardiovascular double
whammy. And the stearic acid in chocolate, although a
saturated fat, is the type that doesn't appear to raise serum
cholesterol.
Want a triple whammy? Serve with a cup of strong,
flavonoid-rich darjeeling tea. The especially good news: This
pie is so rich that it's easy to be satisfied with a very small slice.
2 boxes of low-fat Mori-Nu silken tofu (12.3-ounces each, any
firmness)
1 10-ounce package of semi-sweet chocolate chips
1/3 tsp. sugar
1/3 tsp. water
chocolate-cookie no-bake pie shell
raspberries or strawberries (garnish)
Melt the chocolate in the top of a double boiler until the chips
retain their shape but are soft as warm butter. Remove from
heat and let stand a couple minutes.
Puree the tofu in a food processor�about 2
minutes�frequently scraping down the sides of the mixing bowl
to ensure that all of the tofu is converted from a soft brick into a
warm-pudding consistency. Add the water to the sugar, then mix
both into the tofu. Add the softened chocolate and stir until
thoroughly mixed. Pour into a chocolate-cookie pie shell and
swirl the top to make soft peaks, like frosting a cake. Garnish
with berries. Then chill to set. Ready in 1 hour.
References:
Dillinger, T.L., . . . L.E. Grivetti. 2000, Food of the
Gods�Cure for Humanity? A Cultural History of the
Medicinal and Ritual Use of Chocolate. A paper delivered at
the American Association for the Advancement of Science
annual meeting, Feb. 19.
Historicus. 1896. Cocoa: All About It. Sampson Low,
Marston, & Co., London.
Long, E. 1950. Chocolate: From Mayan to Modern. Aladdin
Books: New York.
Young, A.M., 1994. The Chocolate Tree, Smithsonian
Institution Press: Washington, D.C.
Further Readings:
Raloff, J. 1996. Prescription-strength chocolate. Science
News Online (Oct. 12).
_____. 1996. Chocolate: As hearty as red wine... Science
News 150(October 12):235.
_____.1996. ...but we eat it for pleasure. Science News
150(October 12):235.
_____. 1995. Coming: Drug therapy for chocoholics?
Science News 147(June 17):374.
Young, G. 1984. Chocolate: Food of the Gods. Smithsonian
166(November):664.
Sources:
Louis E. Grivetti
Department of Nutrition
University of California
1 Peter J. Shields Avenue
Davis, CA 95616
E-mail:
legrivetti@ucdavis.edu
Susan Smith
Chocolate Manufacturers Association
7900 W. Park Drive, Suite A320
McLean, VA 22102-4203
E-mail:
ssmith@candyusa.org
WEB:
http://www.candyusa.org
Allen M. Young, Vice President
Collections, Research and Public Programs
Milwaukee Public Museum
800 W. Wells Street
Milwaukee, WI 53233-1478
E-mail:
young@mpm.edu
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