Improving Poor Soil The only way to improve poor soil conditions is to add organic matter to your growing area. Compost (decayed organic materials) and rotted manure are the best amendments. This addition helps the soil structurally by loosening and aerating clay soils, thus improving drainage. Also, organic matter encourages a build-up of organisms which break down compounds in the soil, converting them into usable nutrients. The organic matter itself provides nitrogen and other nutrients as it decays. In other words, ORGANIC MATTER IS GOOD NEWS FOR PLANTS! The best way to add organic matter is when initially planting an area. New beds can be enhanced, ensuring a proper start. Vegetable gardens, as well as beds of annuals, can benefit from yearly additions. Established gardens of perennials, shrubs and trees can also receive organic matter through top and side dressings. You must use some caution around established plants so you don't disturb or smother roots. So this Spring, think about taking a step toward a reachable goal--healthier, richer, better-drained soil. Adding an inch of organic matter yearly to your planting beds will greatly improve your chances of a successful vegetable crop, healthy ornamentals, and long-lived trees and shrubs. Your plants will love you for it! -- Mary Trankle

Stepping Stones and Thyme If you're looking for a diminutive plant to use between stepping stones, creeping thyme works well. It remains small, unlike common thyme, tolerates hot, dry conditions and doesn't mind being stepped on. Chamomile works well, too. - Gerald W. Dupy

mulch!

Same to you, my dear!

It's like chicken soup for plants!

Wildflower Blends Seed packages with beautiful pictures of mixed wildflowers in full bloom are very inviting, but beware. You may be introducing some very invasive plants into your garden, and they will haunt you for years. Many of these seeds are selected because of their high germination rate, ability to reseed, and their survival rate in the worst of conditions. They absolutely go crazy in cultivated soil and do their best to take over. - Gerald W. Dupy

Garden Room When winter is gray and cloudy and the trees are bare, wouldn't it be nice to have a garden room filled with plants and flowers to retreat to? An actual "hot house" attached to your home would be ideal to grow plants, but if you don't have one, just create a bright, cheerful room with lots of windows on the sunny side of your home, preferably the south side. A warm sunny yellow paint would be great, with colorful floral upholstery on the furniture. Try hanging artwork that creates scenes of gardens or fields of flowers. Add some great smelling floral potpourri, birdhouses, nests, maybe even a birdbath, or small waterfall. This bright spot will surely keep your spirits sunny until spring arrives. - Linda Betz

Grow A Hosta Once you experience the ease of care and incredible variety of hostas available, you'll never be able to grow just one! Hostas are shade-loving herbaceous perennials, usually grown for their foliage. Hosta clumps can be only a few inches across, or a few feet. Leaves can be lance-shaped, cupped, heart-shaped, crinkled, and all are very textural. The range of colors and variegation patterns are almost endless. Hostas provide a good foil for shade-loving ferns, and lacy-leaved astilbes. Some low-growing varieties can be used as edging. Vase-shaped hostas such as "Krossa Regal" can be planted alone as a specimen, or in drifts for a block of silvery-green. When at the garden center, young plants in pots show little of the mature form they will achieve in several years.

i have 10 of them that i planted last year. they came back bigger this year.

I've never heard of hostas. What is your favorite variety?

don't know yet. but i have 4 with varigated leaves in the front. they are also called plantation lilies. will find a pic for you. (you've probably seen them without realizing it)

Gotta find a good picture. Don't think they grow very well here...

Sunflower Seed Hulls If you're having difficulty getting plants to grow around a bird feeder, it's likely because of sunflower seed hulls. Sunflower hulls give off a toxin which inhibits the growth of other plants. You will have better luck using deep-rooted plants. Not allowing the hulls to accumulate will help, too.

Choosing A Location For Hostas Although hostas can tolerate a wide range of conditions, the ideal spot to grow them is in dappled (not deep) shade, away from heavily competing tree roots. Oaks and maples in particular can be a big problem. If planting hostas around other trees, carefully dig shallow planting holes and mix compost in with the existing soil. This raises the planting area, and improves drainage in normally hard-packed soil. An hour or two of morning or late afternoon sun is desirable, and actually preferable for some of the yellow, and green and white variegated varieties. Typically, blue-leaved hostas need more shade to maintain their bluish cast. If during the growing season your hosta's leaves begin to turn brown and look burnt, then it's a good indication of too much direct sun. Too little moisture during the summer can also cause browning of leaves. If your hostas fail to bloom, they're probably in too much shade.

Cheap, Easy Plant Labels Want to make some weatherproof plant labels for your garden? Try using plastic knives. With a permanent marker, write the name of the plant on the blade of the knife and poke the handle into the soil. The job is done.

Plant Potting Tip When you pot a plant, begin by putting a coffee filter in the bottom of the pot. Then add potting soil. The filter will allow the plant to drain without losing soil.

Hosta Soil and Fertility Hostas perform best in rich, well-drained soil that is slightly acidic to neutral in pH. The addition of compost (organic matter) is always beneficial. There are many different schools of thought on when, how much, and with what to fertilize hostas. I fertilize my hostas in the spring when they first poke through the soil. I'll use either slow release pellets, or a little 10-10-10 around each plant. When the spring is very rainy, plants will benefit from another feeding in the summer before they flower.

Disbudding Peonies The central bud on a peony stalk will produce a much larger flower than the side buds. If you want an even larger flower, you can remove the plant's side buds. However, removal of the side buds will greatly reduce the length of time the plant is in bloom.

EMAZING Horticulture Tip of the Day - Hosta Maintenance Moisture is very necessary for good hosta growth. If your soil is heavy, compacted, and poorly-drained, an excess of water can cause crown rot, a disease that is fatal to hostas. (It really pays to amend soil to improve drainage.) During the summertime, water slowly and deeply (soaker hoses are best) every few weeks if there isn't adequate rainfall. The best time to transplant hostas is early fall when weather has started to cool down, but well before freezes occur. Take as much of the rootball as possible, and keep the newly planted clumps watered until the ground freezes. Springtime is also conducive to transplanting, as there is usually an abundance of natural moisture. Hostas don't have to be divided. However, if you want new plants for other areas, hostas are best divided in spring or fall. You can simply dig away a portion of the main plant in a pie-shaped wedge, making sure to have a crown section with roots attached. (The crown is the fleshy, fibrous area containing the growing point, and attached to the root system.) Fill in the hole that is left with soil. Either replant the division, or cut apart sections with a sharp knife. Each new plant must have a section of the crown and roots on it to live and grow. Keep divisions out of direct sun when working on them.

***MANAGING RESEEDERS*** Many flowering plants drop seeds, which readily take root. If you like borders thick with flowers, these plants can create the look you want affordably, and with plants to spare! When using reseeders, you will probably have to do some thinning. When too many plants are left to grow in a small area, they will compete with each other and make a poor showing. Thin when the seedlings are small so that you won't disturb the roots of surrounding plants, and save some of these thinnings to share with friends and neighbors. The mulch around your plants will not only inhibit the weeds, but also your emerging seedlings. Pull back the mulch in areas where you want the seedlings to take hold. Some favorite reseeding annuals are cosmos, spider flowers, melampodium, impatiens, petunia and tithonia. Reseeding perennials include blue flox, purple coneflower, shasta daisy, columbine, four-o'clocks and brown-eyed Susan. ***WARM WEATHER HERBS*** Summer is on the way, and it's time to plant some herbs that will enjoy the heat. These herbs need a warm, sunny location: FOR INFERTILE, WELL-DRAINED SOIL: Lavender http://www.gardenguides.com/herbs/lavender.htm AOL: Lavender Marjoram http://www.gardenguides.com/herbs/marjoram.htm AOL: Marjoram Rosemary http://www.gardenguides.com/herbs/rosemary.htm AOL: Rosemary Sage http://www.gardenguides.com/herbs/sage.htm AOL: Sage Savory http://www.gardenguides.com/herbs/summersavory.htm AOL: Savory thyme FOR RICH, MOIST SOIL: Basil http://www.gardenguides.com/herbs/basil.htm AOL: Basil Coriander http://www.gardenguides.com/herbs/basil.htm AOL: Coriander Mint http://www.gardenguides.com/herbs/mint.htm AOL: Mint Fennel http://www.gardenguides.com/herbs/fennel.htm AOL: Fennel Jackie Carroll GardenGuides newsletter@gardenguides.com

Get Ready To Battle Slugs Spring is the time of the year when new, tender foliage is springing up all over our gardens. With that new growth comes the slimy, rapacious slug, voraciously feeding on leaves, flowers, and tender stems. All kinds of plants are attacked by the slug and the damage left behind includes neatly chewed holes, missing leaf parts, and a silvery slime trail upon their retreat. Slugs are active mostly at night, or on rainy, overcast days. On bright, sunny days, slugs are content to hide under boards, clay pots, rocks, mulch, or tunnel into the soil, feeding on decaying organic matter. Many slugs will return again and again to the same plant, foregoing the smorgasbord around them. Mature slugs will lay eggs in batches of 20 or more in their protected hiding spots. Eggs are oval, clear or creamy yellow, and laid in a gelatinous substance. These eggs will develop slowly with adequate moisture, and a young slug can take up to a year to mature.

Controlling Slugs There are several ways to reduce the amount of slugs in your garden. First, eliminate their breeding and hiding places, such as rotting boards, pots, or debris. Do not mulch heavily too early in the season. Trim tall weeds and grassy areas which hold moisture in the soil. Second, set traps for these critters by creating the perfect hiding place - a moist board set on top of the soil in an area you've seen damage occur. Every morning, check the board and remove the slugs that have gathered there. Destroy them by whatever method you can stomach. Common ingredients in slug baits include metaldehyde and methiocarb, which provide effective control. Another product out there is Escar-go!(trademark), in which the active ingredient is iron phosphate. Apparently, after ingesting Escar-go, the slugs stop feeding and soon die. Baits come in granular, pelleted, and liquid forms, and it is very important to read the label of each.

TINY FLOWERS: MAKING THE SMALLEST BENEFICIAL INSECTS FEEL AT HOME By Thomas T. Watson On this spring afternoon one corner of our vegetable garden is dominated by a clump of volunteer coriander, from seed I 'missed' last year. The opposite corner is marked by a bright spray of canary yellow broccoli flowers, from a few side shoots we left in place when we harvested the crop. A few feet from the broccoli, in the perennial herb bed, there is a long, low patch of fragrant white sweet alyssum ("Snow Crystals"). All three plantings, seen from my comfortable seat on the back porch, are surrounded by swarms of small, dark, dancing motes. Were I to get up and go for a closer look (something my spring fever does not encourage, to be quite honest) I would see a host of tiny insects - many of them wasps and flies - darting in to feed on the nectar and pollen of small pink, yellow, or white blossoms, then darting away to do whatever it is such insects do when not feeding. Among those activities, I sincerely hope, will be mating and reproduction, and if I am very lucky, their offspring will call our garden home. Continued: http://www.gardenguides.com/articles/tiny.htm AOL: INSECTS VIOLETS: FAVORED FLORAL EMBLEM OF FOUR STATES by Naomi Mathews At times, certain species {or classifications} of flowers and their next of kin can be downright confusing to a gardener, for many grow what I loosely call "clones" of each other. Yes, I know . . . the proper botanical term for a plant's offspring is really a "hybrid." And, botanically speaking, the family to which different species and their hybrids belong is known as their "genus." Still, all of this plant genealogy can be a bit mind-boggling! And so it is with violas, violets, AND pansies, for all are members of the genus Viola. The old saying that ". . . variety is the spice of life" certainly does apply to these miniature flowers, especially since so many diverse hybrids have evolved. Continue http://www.gardenguides.com/articles/violets.htm AOL: VIOLETS -----------MAY NOTEBOOK----------- ***RUST ON ROSES*** Rust is a fungal disease that causes red-orange spots on the undersides of leaves and yellow blotches on the top. This air-borne disease spreads quickly, so remove all infected leaves from the plant and the ground around the plant. Good sanitation is the best cure. You can also spray the plant with a fungicide such as Rose Defense. ***CURLY TOP VIRUS AND LEAFHOPPERS ON TOMATOES*** These two problems go hand-in-hand since the virus is spread by leafhoppers. Curly top virus causes the plant to stop growing and producing fruit, and the fruit already on the vines will not ripen. The leaves curl upward and turn yellow, and the plant will eventually die. Here are some methods of discouraging leafhoppers: - Provide your tomatoes with a little afternoon shade. Use a shade cloth if necessary. - Keep the garden free of weeds. - Plant tomatoes later than usual to avoid the majority of leafhoppers. More about Natural Pest Control: http://www.gardenguides.com/TipsandTechniques/naturalpestcontrol/pest-noframe.htm ***KEEP YOUR ANNUALS BUSHY AND BLOOMING*** As the season progresses annuals can become leggy and you may see fewer flowers. Here are some tips to keep your plants in top condition. - Weeds compete with flowers for light, moisture and soil nutrients. Frequent weeding not only reduces the competition, but also breaks up the soil so that water can penetrate easily. A layer of mulch also helps keep the weeds at bay. - Pinching out the tops of your plants helps to make them bushier. Most annuals grown today are bred for bushy growth, but older varieties and plants that have become leggy will benefit from having the tops pinched out. - Deadheading, or removing faded blooms, encourages the plant to put it's energies toward making new flowers. If you plan to save seeds, wait until the end of the season, and allow the last of the flowers to go to seed. - Remove yellowing foliage to keep down diseases. If your plant becomes too dense, air may not be able to circulate well around the plant. This encourages diseases. You can remove a few inner stems to increase air circulation and light penetration. @*@*@*@*@*@*@*@*@*@*@*@*@*@*@*@*@*@*@*@ Jackie Carroll GardenGuides newsletter@gardenguides.com

Good stuff!

Thanks!

Heuchera, aka Coralbells Heuchera is a versatile and well-mannered plant for the front of a border in full sun to light shade. There are many cultivars available. "Palace Purple" is a popular purple-leaved variety. When the clump becomes bare and woody, divide the clump, discard the woodiest parts, and replant the rooted divisions.

More Slug Control Barriers of wood ash, lime, sawdust, copper stripping, salt, and diatomaceous earth have all been offered as answers to the slug problem. These substances, when applied to the ground around plants, provide a barrier that the slug cannot cross without damaging itself. Unfortunately, these must be re- applied often, and in some cases can actually be more harmful to the plant than the slug (salt, for example). Beer traps can work, but again have to be dealt with often to be really effective. Half-empty beer cans can be buried up to the lip in the soil near slug-damaged plants. The slug is attracted to the scent of yeast in the beer and falls into the can, drowning in beer. The beer and can must be changed every few days. Your best bet for slug control will be a combination of habitat elimination, trapping, and if needed, chemical baits. A little diligence on your part will keep your plants beautiful and intact for the whole growing season.

Keep Bulb Foliage Growing After your daffodils, tulips, and hyacinths have finished blooming this spring, continue to let their foliage grow, unhindered until it dies off on its own. Don't fold and rubber band leaves, or cut them down after the blooms are spent. The leaves are now in production mode-producing energy that is stored in the bulbs and used next spring for blooming. Bulbs are usually fertilized in early spring just before (or just when) they begin growth. They will benefit from another light application of a balanced fertilizer (e.g., 8-8-8) right after bloom. Disinfect Your Containers Before reusing any plant container, it should be cleaned and disinfected. Use a stiff brush to remove any soil or plant debris stuck to the inside of the container. Wire brushes work great, but aren't appropriate for plastic containers. Prepare a bucket full of one part household bleach to ten parts water. Dip pots or soak them overnight and then allow them to air dry without rinsing. For large containers, use a spray bottle. Disinfect Your Containers Before reusing any plant container, it should be cleaned and disinfected. Use a stiff brush to remove any soil or plant debris stuck to the inside of the container. Wire brushes work great, but aren't appropriate for plastic containers. Prepare a bucket full of one part household bleach to ten parts water. Dip pots or soak them overnight and then allow them to air dry without rinsing. For large containers, use a spray bottle.

Horticulture Tip of the Day - Plant Choices Plant Choices For Wet Sites If you have an area in your garden that is naturally damp, you may want to start a garden of moisture-loving plants. Some choices include: Perennials Astilbes thrive in a partially-shaded, moist site and provide summertime plumes in shades of white, pink, peach, and crimson red. Foliage is ferny and dark green. Ligularia is another semi-shade lover developing large rounded leaves, some having a purple tinge. Yellow flower spikes soar above the foliage in summer. A great textural plant. Monarda or bee-balm is a mint relative and can get quite carried away in a moist area. The Dr. Suess-like flowers, are loved by bees and hummingbirds and come in a rainbow of shades. Foliage is fragrant and used in teas.

Dealing With Drainage Holes Before planting in a container, something has to be done about that big hole in the bottom. If you fill the containers with soil without taking some preventative action, the soil will slowly leach away through the hole. One recommendation is to use window screen, but over time, the screen will become clogged and defeat the purpose of the drainage hole. A better way to keep soil in the pot and to allow proper drainage is to line the bottom of it with a few layers of clay pot shards or small, flat stones.

GardenGuides - Tuesday, May 23, 2000 DIAGNOSIS: MELAMPODIUM by Gayle Harris Doctor, what is it? It's spreading all over the place, it's yellow, and no matter what I do it keeps coming back! Not to worry; it may sound like a contagious skin disease, but it's actually a versatile plant called melampodium. This underused annual with a dreary moniker is well worth a trial run in your garden. Although Melampodium paludosum has been around for a long time, I wasn't aware of it until my mother claimed that she'd discovered a true yellow that bloomed gloriously in partial shade. Here in Texas we love our shade trees, but it can be a challenge getting a variety of colors beneath them. Like everyone else I've used the pink hues of impatiens and the ubiquitous caladiums, but I was yearning for something a little brighter. I figured I had nothing to lose by giving melampodium a try. http://www.gardenguides.com/articles/melampodium.htm Melampodium ***TAKING CUTTINGS*** Looking for an inexpensive way to increase the number and variety of plants in you garden? Taking a few cuttings from the plants in your garden is easy, and exchanging them with your friends is a great way to introduce new plants into your gardens. Cuttings are the most common method of propagating ornamentals. Some plants root easily with little encouragement while others need special treatment. Consult your local Agricultural Extension Service for more information about rooting specific plants. Rooting hormones are synthetic versions of natural plant hormones that can encourage root formation on difficult plants. Commercial rooting hormones are available in garden centers in powder form, but be aware that many contain chemical fungicides. "Willow Water" is a rooting solution that you can make yourself by cutting willow stems into 1" pieces and soaking them in water for 24 hours. Remove the willow stems before placing your cuttings in the water. Soak the cuttings overnight before planting them. Here's what you'll need to root cuttings: ~ A Sharp knife ~ Rooting hormone or willow water ~ A tray or pot filled with a mix of half course sand and half peat moss or commercial rooting medium. ~ Slender twig for making holes in the sand ~ Watering can ~ A plastic bag that will fit over your tray or pot Using a sharp knife, take a cutting 4 to 6 inches long. Strip the lower leaves from the stem and remove buds and flowers. After treating the cutting with rooting hormone, make holes in the sand with a twig and plant the cuttings in the holes. Water well and cover the pot with a plastic bag. Make sure the sides of the bag don't touch the foliage. You may want to insert twigs around the edge of the pot to hold the bag away from the leaves. Place the pot in a warm, shady place. The cuttings should be established and ready to move to individual containers in 5-6 weeks. ***TOADS: HUMBLE GARDEN HEROES*** The average toad will eat 50-100 insects every night - that's 10,000 to 20,000 insects throughout a gardening season. They will help eliminate garden pests such as flies, grubs, slugs, cutworms, grasshoppers, and anything else they are fast enough to catch. You can encourage toads to take up residence in your garden by providing shelter and water, and by using gentle pesticides that won't hurt your warty allies. Toads prefer homes that are humid and out of the wind. You can build a toad residence by digging a shallow depression in the soil and covering it with a board. Don't forget to leave a door! A birdbath at ground level would provide just the right amount of water for your toads' daily needs, but if you would like to see them raise a family in your garden, consider adding a water garden or small pond. Once they move in, they will stay for years, so the small effort required to attract them will pay off many times over. @*@*@*@*@*@*@*@*@*@*@*@*@*@*@*@*@*@*@*@ Jackie Carroll GardenGuides newsletter@gardenguides.com

More Perennial Plants For Wet Sites Physotegia (or dragonhead) has showy pink-purple flower spikes that bloom in summer. Primula (Primroses) are spring-blooming beauties that come in many varieties. They like a partially shaded location. Rheum (ornamental rhubarb) is a statuesque plant growing 4-5 feet tall with flower spikes even higher in summer. Likes full sun and develops huge leaves-very striking! Tradescantia (Spiderwort) likes full sun -part shade and has a grassy form. Wide grass-like blades 6 inches to a foot tall. Flowers are beautiful opening in the morning and closing when the sun gets bright. From deep purple to pure white they are a great addition to the damp garden.

Avoiding Transplant Shock How would you feel if you awoke one morning to find yourself living in a foreign land? Pretty much in shock, no doubt. Plants may not have feelings akin to those of humans, but when you move them, they are definitely subject to shock. Helping plants avoid the shock of being moved is fairly simple. Dig the plant's new hole in advance, setting aside that soil to fill the hole left by the transplant. Leave as much soil as possible around the plant's root system. After firmly seating the plant in its new home, soak it with a liquid, foliar-feeding fertilizer, such as "Watch-Us-Grow." The plant won't even know it's been moved.

Alternative Use For Packing Peanuts When potting or repotting plants, improve drainage by using packing peanuts instead of rocks in the bottom of your pots. According to Better Homes and Gardens, you must use the PEANUT-SHAPED PIECES since shell-shaped or hollow packing pieces tend to hold water leading to root rot. Using packing peanuts instead of rocks means your containers will be lighter than traditional rock-filled containers - a real advantage when you're working with hanging baskets, window boxes, or other containers you have to lift.

Shrubs For Wet Areas Oakleaf Hydrangea- is a moisture-loving deciduous shrub with large oak-like leaves and flower plumes in summer. Can tolerate a fair amount of shade. Bark gets flaky and peeling as the plant matures. Looks great in all seasons. Salix (Willow)- There are many varieties of willow, most getting fairly big. Fantail willow has interesting flattened, curvy stems that are great in dried arrangements. Sun-loving shrubs are beautiful, interesting, and useful. Itea, a native shrub has drooping white flower clusters in late spring. It really comes to life in fall when it's leaves turn a vivid red. Tolerates partially shady sites and gets about three feet tall. Has suckering growth and will slowly spread throughout an area. Great all-season shrub.

Rotate Your Vegetables! Crop rotation is a must for keeping the effects of soil-borne pathogens from wreaking havoc in yearly vegetable plantings. The basic premise of crop rotation is to avoid a buildup of insects and disease (specific to a vegetable or related group of vegetables) in an area. Avoid planting the same crop in the same spot more than once every three years.

It is 7 years between Papaya planting in a field - or longer due to the "Papaya Ick" disease which is a fungus which stunts the fruit and destroys the plants. Nasty stuff to deal with - very messy! I don't grow my own papaya.

Short On Space? A berm is a nifty way to add planting space in a limited area. A berm is simply a mound of soil, and it can be quite high. It's a great way to double or triple your planting area and increase visual appeal. And it doesn't have to be constructed of a dump-truck load of soil. Large rocks can anchor and underpin the structure, make the soil go farther, and hold it in place.

The Dangers Of Over-Improved Soil Thoroughly working and improving a new bed is a good practice, since all the soil conditions will be essentially the same throughout the bed. But if you're planting a tree or shrub, over-improving the soil in the hole may cause the roots to stay in the food-rich improved area instead of spreading into the surrounding, unimproved soil. The result is that the plant will eventually become root-bound and die.

What To Do With Tiny Seeds Some vegetable and flower seeds are so small that you wonder if you've purchased an empty packet. Carrot, lettuce, and begonia seeds are all extremely small, and if you sneeze at an inopportune time, you've lost your crop for the season! It goes without saying that seeds this small are hard to work with. You can add more volume to your cluster of seeds by adding a handful of sand and mixing it together well. Then use a spoon to distribute the mixture into your prepared garden soil, or onto prepared flats. Be sure to use all of the mixture, and distribute it evenly. Seeds this tiny don't usually need to be covered by soil, but be sure to firm the soil around and over them using the back of a hoe or rake.

Replanting Houseplants This is an excellent time of year to re-pot plants that are potbound and have outgrown their current container. Don't skimp on potting soil quality. It's all these plants have to live and thrive in. To ensure that the product you purchase is good stuff, buy from nurseries and garden centers. Take time to actually look inside bags, feeling the texture of the potting mix. A good all-purpose mix should be light, well-draining, and moisture retentive. It should have a nice earthy smell, and no strong odors. There are special mixes for cacti and succulents, orchids, etc. that you can purchase for plants with specific soil requirements. If your plants have been happy, use whatever is working for you.

Garden sayings When the leaves show their undersides Be very sure that rain betides The scent of flowers if very strong When rain will not be long The anemone closes and goes to bed Just before rain falls on your head The leaves of clover smaller get If the sky for storm is set Now look! Our weather glass is spread- The pimpernel whose flower Closes its leaves of spotted red Against a rainy hour The hanging teasel opens out When sunny weather is about But if the teasel closes up The falling rain will fill your cup When dry leaves rattle on the tree A fall of snow you soon will see If the dogwood�s flowers are here The frost will not again appear When there�s many a hip and haw A bitter winter is in store But if the hips and haws be few A milder winter�s coming due Onion�s skin very thin Mild winter coming in Onion�s skin thick and tough Coming winter�s cold and rough When the flowers are early out There�ll be but little fruit about But if the flowers wait til later The crop of fruit will be the greater If oak trees hang full And beech nuts thrive well A very hard winter Be sure to foretell If the ash is out before the oak You may expect a summer soak But if the oak is out before the ash You�ll hardly get a single splash If on the trees the leaves still hold The coming winter will be cold October leaves upon the tress Foretell a winter when you�ll freeze But if October bring cold and wind February leaves the frost behind The vine that buds in April Will not the barrel fill. A pear year, a dear year A cherry year, a merry year A plum year, a dumb year

Those are great!! Better than the Old Farmer's almanac! And, Veddy English

Wasn't really sure about posting them in here, but they sorta fit! Thanks for the ressurance!

Hosta-in-Chief goes on R&R and suddenly nothing is posted anymore. Gotta go see why they are not sending me gardening tips anymore. Maybe that was the day I spent my entire time decking Inner and deleted the entire mess. *sigh*

i loved that rhyme! wonder if they have a southern one!

gotta check the Old Farmer's Almanac. There is bound to be one in there.

yup, and gardening now has a gardener's almanac, so post those quips!

I'll hunt some up for you.....I used to have a whole book of them! Just have to find it...

cool! i've only looked through an almanac once. don't have a clue how to use it or what it's for *grin*

Anyone know what eats marigolds and how to cure it? I live in northwest Austin, for two years straight now, my marigolds have turned spotty and then disappeared. Yours, Dora

give us some more info as to the location of your plants (hanging pots, planted, etc)...thanks for stopping by!

I always thought marigolds keep garden pests away. It sounds like a plant virus or chemical burns. Is it still occurring? For a page of fantastic gardening tips, I liked this one in particular. This is a great website for all things garden: http://www.heirloomseeds.com/garden.htm Grow your tomatoes upside down! Start out with a large container that can be used as a hanging basket. The hole in the bottom of the container should be about the size of a ping pong ball (you may have to enlarge the hole on some containers). Then take a small tomato seedling and work it carefully through the hole from the inside of the container. Fill the container with good potting soil, and hang your upside-down tomato outdoors in an appropriate spot. Carole says she gets lots of surprised looks and comments about this unusual way of growing tomatoes. Another plus, she notes, is no staking, no slugs, and diseases are reduced. Remember, though, the potted plants need to be watered daily (larger varieties may need watered twice a day). Although any variety of tomato will work, we think the cherry type tomatoes would be the most attractive hanging. Before you know it, you'll be picking delicious, home-grown tomatoes!

I'm going to try it from a hanging planter rightside up..... the battle against slugs is never-ending in Hawaii, but so is tomato season!

Does anyone know that everthing in here is also on http://www.saveseed.com/ ???!!!

actually, it is topic 31 which is elsewhere, also. Surprise!!!

my neighbor told us about the upside down tomato plant. unfortunately we had to leave it when we moved *sigh* anyone know if you can grow tomatoes in winter in So Cal (btw, i'm not sure if we're zone 9, 10, or 11).... marigolds are susceptible to disease, just like anything else. but they do work really well at keeping pests away from your precious produce gardens! (like garlic and roses!!)

Sure you can! They have banana plants there. Just put it on a sunny sheltered side of your house! Happy tomatoes!