BJ, Boom! Ya blew me away on that one! Countersunk the nail! Perfect! Another print-out for *me*! You are exactly right about the solo-orientation and fanaticism of most of the (Italo)cafe riders, it's true. A little surising that so few ladies appreciate non-cruisers though...

*Sniffle, sniffle.*

It'll be good seeing you out here, BJ; just reminding you that I'm in Jamaica. Wouldn't want you going to the wrong island or anything! If I were looking for someone with shared interests, I'd end up with a cynical, paranoic miser who liked music, bikes and talking about revolution, blood & fire. Wonder if there's really a girl like that out there... Actually, that's part of the attraction of a motorbike to me. It's a bit more social than me bicycle; you can actually offer someone a ride!

They're out there Sam, believe me they're out there! (o;{

Oops, got carried away huh, well Iam just really lucky, finding a soulmate isn't easy but as one famous person stated: Better to have lost at Love, than to have never loved at all! Frank, a lot of the Lady riders I know are just much more practical than men, they buy and ride a bike that "makes sense" and they buy it with their "brain" and not there heart and soul like we men do. Take the 2 800 intruders we are getting, her's is Red, she thinks it pretty and doesn't want loud pipes on it, she's getting bags, tank belt, ect. with "Red Roses" inlayed on them a small windshield and she will be happy with that bike till we passaway! Me, mines pure black, mean, nasty, can't wait to core out the pipes for more putt sound. I figure due to Moto-Lust, I will own the bike up untill the bank see's fit to forget about the bankrupty and will lend me money! Hell, as I signed the papers for the Intruder, I was looking over a CBR1100XX, Royal Star hard-bagger and a beautiful red/cream Triumph Tiger leftover and wishing I could have all 3 bikes! See we males have moto-lust to a "extreem" factor Only "True RUB's" can buy a bike for "INVESTMENT PURPOSES" IMHO! The rest of us Lust and Dream of the new machine in the future! Tailwinds, BJ

up untill the bank see's fit to forget about the bankrupty and will lend me money! Speaking o' which, when's the discharge? You can start loaning money after that, right? You've got the same problem I have (actually, SEVERAL of the same problems I have)--You want every bike. With the exception of cruisers, which I'm not much into, I could see myself owning anything from a sport tourer (something to run down to Texas for a 16 hour day) to a crotch rocket (something to spin around in the mountains in) to a pavement burner like the XX (something to put down to Texas on an 8 hour day.... ) to a T-bird, etc. As Gene Autry said, "I never met a bike I didn't like". Er, well, something like that.

Ohh If money was growing in trees, I would have a 1400 intruder for the look and power, a vymax for my pleasure, a st 1100 for traveling, a cruiser for my wife's comfort,........but.

Hmm.. Money no object...H-D Road King for North Coasting, Kawasaki KLR650, and either a Suzuki GS500E or a Honda 250 Nighthawk as an everyday commuter bike(if Honda still made a 450 Nighthawk, I wouldn't have that choice! But it seems that only Suzuki has a standard air-cooled 500; Kawasaki has a 500 cruiser & a 500 sportbike, both water-cooled) Then again, the KLR would be better than the H-D for North Coasting, and stronger than the GS500E or Nighthawk for commuting (although maybe not as manoeuverable), so...

Corporate Harley is at it again. The Motorcycle Online daily news of 12/8 reports Harley is suing a porno film maker because they "prominently" used the Harley name in the movie. According to the article, the Motor Co was contacted by a "deeply religious" man that would not buy a Harley because it was associated with porn. Excuse me--but what on earth would a deeply religious person be doing viewing a porn movie? If you buy Harleys version of this story, I have a great deal for you on some swampland! The "new" Harley--don't associate us with anything obscene!! Hoop

What's te title please? Sam I forgot. A DR or XT 350 for commuting and soft off road, or maybe a KLR 650 (with a lowering kit as I'm a normal person). If ever I get to Jamaica, a D.P. would be my choice, I think.

The local dealer for Jialing bikes (joint venture between Honda and the Jialing armaments company in China) is having a clearance sale. A 125 cc D-P going for J$85,000 that sold last year for about J$125,000! Sounds good; I wish I had the money!

I agree with Yves...what's the name? I have never seen a naked H-D that I didn't like! Ed

LOL! Hee. What's the exchange rate, Sam?

money no object:Kawasaki KLR 650,Royal Star tour classic II(tan bags and seat),Triumph T-Bird Sport, Norton Fastback Comando(red & silver metalflake) and an FLHTCI Electra Glide Classic Anniversary Edition plus anything else that catches my fancy.Do I have "moto-lust"?? can you say "terminal" Happy TRAils/NSD Paul

Hoop, I saw the HD porn story on NBC news as well as MO. I believe HD is suing because the "actors" weren't wearing Motorclothes! ;-) Dogs on Hogs, produced by Thunderous Head Productions

Wasn't pipe question?

About J$36 to US$1

Just asked my folks: between J$38 and J$40 for US$1, maybe will plummet after the election.

Well, I got my Road King back yesterday with the new Stage 2 kit for fuel-injection installed. The kit includes a new computer "map" for timing, rev. limit (moved from 5 to 6,000), and fuel flow, as well as new FI jets (40% more flow), a cam (made by Andrews and similar to the EV27), and Screamin Eagle high flow air cleaner. First thing I noticed was how much more exaggerated the lumpy exhaust note is. The new bump stick (cam) has a much wider set of lobes for increased duration and during warm-up the bike sounds almost like it's going to cut out, although it never does. Once warmed and rolling, the new setup offers buckets of roll-on power. At 60 mph in 5th gear, a throttle twist will send your butt to the back of the seat. I'll have her on a Dyno for an exact measurement of the torque and horsepower output, but my initial reaction is a whopping big grin! Lion King!

Good to hear of the success Brad! Sounds like everything's right on that bike. Is yours lowered?

Frank, I haven't lowered the bike, but I may sometime in the future. I like the idea of a lower center of gravity, but I really don't relish the possibility of bashing my fishtail pipes into curbes! ;-) Crunch! Ah %%$#!!!

I don't think it's the CG that gets 'em lowered, it's the "look". Me I'd hate to ground anything, too easy on that bike for sure.

Actually Frank, it's both looks and function. A lot of guys tell me the bike handles better after lowering. Definitely looks good too. But I hate scrapping parts, and I am comfortable where it is for now. I think I'll enjoy the Stage II for a while before I spend any more money! I've seriously lowered my cash flow!

It can't handle better because of one major component of handling--clearance. I've ridden with Harleys and they always look like they're fixing to put something down, forcing you to slow down. Lowering it would make it worse. That's one thing I didn't like about the RStar--you would start touching metal down very fast.

Yeah, but the RS floorboards have a metal insert where they touch. It's made specifically for touching down. You wear out the insert..just replace it. The floorboards fold up, so there's no problem..though it takes a little getting used to hearing that scraping sound when you touch down. If I lean any farther to have something solid touch down..I'm going to fast in the corners.

Yeah, the RS has a major disadvantage in its width and lowness, making ground clearance pretty sparse.

Don't most of the FAT cruisers have this same problem? They sure look low to me and except for the Shadow the big boys toys come mostly with floorboards don't they! Cruiser's just aren't ment for going fast! I seriously doubt that was given any real consideration. Except for maybe the Valk, as it started out to be a "True Power Cruiser" (aka: V-Max style), then Honda changed it to a big heritage style machine to compete with the Royal Star. That's why I decide to go with the Nighthawk over the Intruder as I still like to "kick it up a little" in the twisty's and figured the "standard" would work better than the "cruiser". Cruiser's are for "stop and smell the roses riding", looking good down at the local hangout and possible light touring duty. If you leave the fast out of the cruiser, you will be a lot happier with your purchase. To me hopping up the motor on a "Dresser" is just pure macho vanitiy, the bike will do it's designed job excellently in "STOCK FORM". If you want fast, shut up and buy a V-Max, Magna or a sportbike, they where made to go fast. I know, I know BJ is full of himself again, ha ha!! Tailwinds, BJ

It can't handle better because of one major component of handling--clearance. I've ridden with Harleys and they always look like they're fixing to put something down, forcing you to slow down. Lowering it would make it worse. That is certainly true for Softails Jon (and lots of riders could care less about such things if they achieve "the look"). By contrast, the King has a lot of clearance in stock form and handles the twisties with grace and stability. The idea of a lower center of gravity is appealing, but obviously it would require giving up a bit of clearance. Would it be enough to cause sparks? Maybe, depending on how low one goes. Most of the guys I know that have lowered their Kings an inch or so find it to be an improvement under most conditions, but I haven't YET had the opportunity to take one of their bikes into an aggressive corner to find out! I presume one could compensate by stiffening the shocks, but that is also a compromise in ride comfort. Guess it depends on your own priorities, ey? She's a real bump and grinder! ;-)

My (limited) 'King-riding experience tells me that "aggressive" riding only applies in the straights and on-ramps, where you become a cop in your mind for a few secs! The bike by nature and layout just has a wallowy feeling that makes pushing down into a bend a waste let alone a knuckle-whitener. "Graceful" is a very apt adjective for the Road King.

True, BJ, but the Harley engine (and most V-twins) is half as wide as the V-4 in the Star. There was nothing Yamaha could do to get around this--it's a relatively wide engine. They all have crummy clearance compared to my Ninja, but the Star is a little worse.

If your buying a big tourer like the RS or King, you shouldn't be into trying to ride it like a sport bike..though every now and then you want to have some fun. I like ol' Dennis' idea of different colored metals for those little scraping pads under the RS floorboards. Maybe red and green for this time of year..just touch down and set off those colored sparks. Switch to red and blue for around the 4th of July. *GRiNs* I took my buddies 87 Venture for a ride yesterday (since I have it in my garage for the Winter). For a bike that has the same guts as my RS..I'd have no problem out running an RS, King or almost any big bike in the twisties. The Venture is surprisingly nimble in the corners. Of course you sit on it like a sport bike..with your feet tucked up under butt on the pegs. I should have bought the thing when I had the chance for $3k. It has less miles on it than my RS.

Hey, why not use Magnesium? Touch it down and they *stay* lit up!

If you leave the fast out of the cruiser, you will be a lot happier with your purchase. To me hopping up the motor on a "Dresser" is just pure macho vanitiy, the bike will do it's designed job excellently in "STOCK FORM". BJ, power isn't just about top speed, it's also about acceleration! You think twisties are the only place where power and performance count? Cruisers and dressers might be more laid back as a general rule, but when other vehicles are in your path, power to pass or to get out of the way is kinda handy ya know? As far as I'm concerned, the more power I have at my disposal, the better! BTW, as far as the macho vanity stuff goes, I hardly ever ride in my underwear--really! hehe Check out this profile baby! ;-)

Jon, can you get magnesium in different colors? *GRiNs* Brad, I was thinking the same thing earlier and forgot to write that into the message. You can't have too much power..even in a big cruiser. When you gotta pass..it's gotta be effortless!

I think it burns white. Sorry.

Uhh, Mg is used as an underwater fuse among other things isn't it? Yes I once taped nails to my bootsides near the little toe to look like I was goin faster than I was on the parkway, got pulled over and lectured about being a wiseguy. No more special F/X thanks!

Nails to the bootsides? How long ago was that Frank. How does it make you look like you're going faster? (I must be missing something)

Welll, you're leaning and you can stick the outer edge out a little more than you need, when the nail touches down it looks like you're at the clearance limit. Works good on newbies behind ya and cagers. Like putting your taillites on briefly before a corner in a car to make the follower think you're on the brakes. A Cheap trick...

Ok, hehe. With the RS you wouldn't need to as it's real easy to touch down with the floorboards just the way it is.

The Road King is plenty for me, K. I just *sat* on a 'Star at the dealer and holding those tillers and staring through the windshield I just kept thinking "There's no way you could handle this much metal!".

Power, it's a strange subject. I understand about good passing power Brad, by why then doesn't Harley "bulid in extra passing power right from the start? It seems like riders of big machine's just "forget how to downshift", to get that "passing power" needed at the moment. My riding pard's dad has a 90th. Aniversary FLHTCU, and has totally messed up the bike by going for "MORE POWER", it's so damn "unreliable" now that he had to go out and buy a 97 Electra-Glide Standard to have a bike for long distances he can rely on to be "trouble free". The RS riders are always "crying" about how the moto-mags "dump" on the RS on top end speed (ie: for passing), they state "just shift down to 4th. gear as 5th. is "only a overdrive" so Yamaha didn't dial in "passing power" either in thei Big machines. That tell's me that neither manufacturer felt you "needed" top end passing power for this style of bike. Even a 500 Ninja, if you drop a gear or 2 will kick some butt and blow away any normal family cage. Sounds like Harley and Yamaha just found a way to "suck big bucks out of your wallets" so you could have the "true amount of needed power" to pass safely! Jo learned to ride on "250 Rebel" and one thing it did was "teach" her about figuring out power to pass. While the big machines, just went WFO, Jo had to really calculate distance, speed, etc. I think we are all getting a little spoiled in these modern times. Maybe we all need to do a little more brain work than head work about riding our choosen bikes, just MNSHO. Happy Holidays, BJ

You got it BJ, downshifting's an unknown to many a rider; they think if it can't roll on in top it's a weakling. Apparently that's no fun, that thinking/calculating/awareness thing called dropping down when needed. I guess you're only supposed to move the right wrist (minimally) to move around? (o:

BJ, factory bikes are designed to meet the needs of the "average" rider given a certain level of regulation, price, and performance constraints. While I don't disagree with your overall premise that a person can "make do", for my style of riding I felt the Stage 2 was a good investment. The extra punch makes riding the bike more enjoyable for me, plain and simple. I understand the difference between needing something and wanting it--increased performance was clearly a want! Bothers me not the least to say that. The bike ran fine before, but it runs even better now. I don't know what your friend's dad did to his Ultra. If he messed around with motor internals, and mixed and matched parts, then he took a risk. The only mechanical changes on my bike were larger fuel-injection jets and a cam--both designed by HD for their bikes. The kit (including the computer map) was fully tested by HD and has absolutely no affect on the warranty of the motor. Nor should it have any impact on the reliability of the bike. Neither component required opening up the motor. IMHO, it was a conservative upgrade done purely for selfish reasons. Yippie! Now, all I "need" is cash! ;-)

How'd they get that cam in without opening up the motor, Star Trek-type mechanics? (o;{

Fortunately for Scotty, changing a cam doesn't involve open motor surgery. She can't take much more Jim, the rivets are poppin!

Frank, changing the cam on an 80 cubic inch Harley is no big trick...when you do it on the evo motor, bring bolt cutters tho' so you can remove the stock pushrods without removing the rockers. That is one I don't understand why they put in solid pushrods. Anyway, I can shift the cam in my FLT in about 45 minutes without beer, provided that I don't change out the cage bearing. 'Course, for someone doing it the first time, there is the matter of the breather gear... Ed

Now, I thought it was an important thing to change the cage bearing? (Brad knows I've been readin' Thunder Press (o;{)

Brad, ok point well taken in the enjoyment of hop up. Still, I have always enjoyed "running the gears" on a motorcycle, it seem's you might as well have a "Turbo Automatic" with a built in "passing gear" on the Dresser's I have even notice "liter Sportbike" riders discusing "I can't get more power out of top gear"! I think that top gear on most bikes is at least kinda a "overdrive" and unless you have a ZX11, downshifting is good for the bike and makes the ride way more fun. Even I plan on some minor pe formance mods on the Nighthawk, jet kit, 4into1 exhaust, K&N airfilter, etc. So enjoy the higher level of performance of the stage 2 kit. Yes, you are right, Si's dad mixed and matched trying to make the Dresser out run his buddy's GL1500 and it will never be the same again. I heard he's thinking of turbo-charging the E-G Standard, some people never learn! Happy New Year, BJ

Now, I thought it was an important thing to change the cage bearing? Frank, I have changed mine twice in 8 years. I figure that if I was running it up toward red-line routinely, I probably should change it with a cam change out. I run mine at lower RPM, rarely getting it over 4 grand. Lots of oil in there, not too worried about it. Ed

Frank, a lot of folks do recommend changing the bearing when you replace the cam--usually an aftermarket bearing with more rollers. However, the Stage 2 kit warranty requires that an HD bearing be used. A new one was put in with the cam. Get your bearings straight!

Before you all told me the downside of Slick 50 (which I've never heard my sister complain about; she's used it in her car, a Suzuki Swift), I always thought that the first two things I'd do with a car is give it Slick 50 and K&N filters (air & oil). The advertised advantages of K&N filters are freer flow and reusability. Can someone please tell me the downsides (apart from cost)? Before you all told me, I didn't know the downsides of Slick 50 (what were they again? Engine deposits? Clogged oil passages in journal bearings? Reduced clearances, sometimes turning into interference?).

Sam, I have heard that on some bikes with "stock exhaust" systems, the K&N let to much air flow and it super leaned out the bike. It seems that most of the time though K&N stock replacement filters always help and are sooo much easier to maintain over the miles.BJ

At 160+,000 miles, Slick 50 has caused no problems in my car. If you use the K&N stock-type replacements there shouldn't be any problems; it's when you go to the race-type free-flow filters that usually the (bike) mixture has to be richened slightly, or the idle-screw adjusted slightly from my experience. Noisier intake also (I love it).

BJ is correct. Depending on the aircleaner setup, a K&N filter usually allows more airflow and can lean out your bike if it is not jetted correctly. Whenever you change the airflow on a bike, it is important to make sure the fuel/air mix is set correctly; however, as a general principle, a better breathing motor will produce more power. BTW, opening up the airbox without opening up the exhaust is not going to help much--you need more air in, and more air out to get any real advantage. As far as Slick 50 goes, it is a bonding agent that some believe can change motor tolerances. A much touted product today is Milletec, which is an additive that is used in NASCAR racing as well by the military. It is not a coating, and, therefore, requires replacement about every 15,000 miles. However, it has important properties, like the ability to withstand contamiants such as salt and water without changing tolerances. One word of caution--never put anything in your motor unless it is designed to handle the "slick" qualities of these additive agents--including synthetic oil. HDs, for example, are not. They require a relatively thick oil. Suck it up and spit it out!

Slick 50 was described to me by a mechanic who races cars as "Stick 50" I made the inquiry the last time we had some debates about oil and the additives. He was not impressed with the stuff, he admitted that people have great high mileage success with it in cars, but commented that having rebuilt the motors in cars that have run the stuff it was a mess. One BIG word of caution to motorcyclists is the fact that this stuff adheres to everything it touches... One MUST consider WET CLUTCHES!! Constant slippage would inevitably lead to clutch plate replacement. The only additive that I have found to be recommended by motorcyclist's is called "B-G Additive". I used it in the KZ to quiet down the rattle that all KZ's have in the tranny and it worked!! No clutch slippage and no problems, it must be replaced with every oil change and I now run it in the Wing, ( ounces per 4 quarts). IMHO, there are NO miracles out there... One must pick a good quality oil, and change it regularly. The frequency of change will vary depending on things like Water/Air cooling, riding conditions, but is the only REAL answer to engine life. Oil absorbes Carbons, Waste, dust etc. and conversely so would a "Sticky" product! I would rather change the oil every 3000 and get the crap outta there than "Hope" none of the contaniments are still "Stuck" in there.... Oil of choice for ever thing I have rode is Castrol 20/50 semi-synthetic. When I recently got tired of buying paper air filters I looked into the K-N's. The guy told me about the prospect of increased air flow and adjusting the "Richness" of the mixture, as an option he recommended the UNI closed cell cleanable filter... I bought it ($25.00) and have had no problems what-so-ever.

I never thought my big RS lacked power when rode stock. The response I get from opening up both ends makes me more confident in the bike because when I twist it a little in a must twist situation..I want it to go. I've actually come to like the tall gears as I do a lot of long distance riding and 5th gear is great around 85 or so. Interesting on the oil. I've been using the Yamalube in the RS and wonder if it's any better (or who makes it for Yamaha..can't imagine a refinery with the Yamaha name on it, though they make pianos, stereos..you name it, hehe). Shane, is the Castrol 20/50 for both auto and mc, or do you use an mc specific? I wonder if the B-G Additive would quiet the bit of whiny sound between 35-40mph in third gear the RS has (due to gears milled to squarely..from my understanding..it has improved some over time). I usually take it up to about 40 in 2nd before shifting so it isn't too noticeable. Who has problems in down-shifting? You're one click away from more power and better response. Who wants to roll-on from less than 3k rpm? Can't be that good for the bike. That's where learning on a dirt bike is good..constantly shifting to find your best power band response.

I have always used BG EPC, (extreem pressure compound) install every 10,000 miles and it has helped with shifting and quites the bike a tad to. BJ

Until this year I have always used Kendall Black Label or Valvoline Racing in 20-50 weight.Several bike magazines this year and last have stated that as car manufactures go for higher and higher mileage figures thru decreased friction that the polymers used in CURRENT automotive oils may not lead to long motorcycle engine life.Moderen cars are running at higher temps and closer tolerences and the oil for those situations will not stand up in motorcycle transmissions or work on our wet clutches.I have now gone to a motorcycle specific oil in the Ventures.I did notice that the shifting got better and I did not lose as much in gas milage pulling the trailer.I use Yamalube 20 40 and Maxam 20-50.I use the Yamalube in winter to mid spring(It gets cold in Utah(5 degrees F right now))and the Maxam in the hotter summer months (up to 110 here)

The Castrol is an Automotive oil, it comes in Petro, Semi-Synthetic, or Synthetic. I have always used Valvoline in the cars/trucks and tried Valvoline 20-50 Racing in the Kawi... Stuff foamed like crazy... Sooo back to the Castrol. Although not MC specific it takes a beating, stays foam free and costs about 1/2 MC specific, I have never had a problem with it. The B-G additive is the closest to a "Wonder" additive that I have ever found. BJ is absolutely correct when he says it quiets 'em down. Inline 4 Kawi's are nortorious for Tranny noise and that stuff made 'em almost inaudible. Truly amazing!! As to all this roll-on talk... The Wing is just fine for roll on as long as you take the time to tap her down one (possibly two if in OD).... Not a cage yet that has given me any problems coming out of a corner and seeing that opportunity to leave 'em behind... and smaller displacement/lighter bikes have a hole shot advantage, but it isn't a very big hole.... hehehe IMHO the ability to roll on efficeintly is part bike, part operator head space and timing ;o)

Personally, I never understood why anyone would "experiment" with auto oils in their bike. Oil is the absolute cheapest insurance policy you can have, and I want oil formulated for my bike, not my car. The money you save by using auto oil is chump change. I know lots of folks run the stuff without a problem, but taking a chance for a lifetime savings under $500 (net present value of 50 X $10 savings) is hardly worth the risk in my book. Hey, I saved so much on oil we can all get Super Sized at McDonalds tonite!

I saw a ad for new Castrol "motorcycle oils" in the New Cycle World. I to have used only motorcycle specific oil but have known others using good car oils that have lasted 100,000 miles so who knows. I just feel better using oil made for bikes. Tailwinds, BJ

Downshift on a Harley? All the power is way down low, so if you want to pass, an upshift would make more sense.

I use car oil and change it every 1500 miles (filter every 3000). An oil change every 1500 miles is good for the engine and keeps the oil clean, but I couldn't afford it with MC specific oils.

Downshift on a Harley? All the power is way down low, so if you want to pass, an upshift would make more sense. I say old chap, would you mind explaining that one? I use car oil and change it every 1500 miles (filter every 3000). An oil change every 1500 miles is good for the engine and keeps the oil clean, but I couldn't afford it with MC specific oils. An extra $8 every couple of months? Don't order the second topping on your pizzas one Friday and you'll have it! ;-)

On my inline fours (when I want to accelerate very fast) I would rev the engine to redline, then shift. The power peak was usually around the redline anyway, so shifting any sooner would mean unused power. When I rode my buddy's Sporty 1200, though, I was surprised to find that when I upshifted I got a kick in the pants. Upshifting, by lowering the revs back into the power band (like 3500 rpms on a Sporty) actually gives you more power and a kick in the pants. By 5000 rpms you've got no power. $8? You're getting a good deal. At my motorcycle shop those specific oils are $5.50-$6.50 a bottle. Valvoline is $1.25. Lesse, for 4 quarts (what my Ninja takes), that comes out to $10 every 3000 miles. with a motorcycle specific oil that comes out to $44. $34 doesn't seem like as much now, but back when I was a starving student (then a starving network administrator), even the $10 was hard to come by. But I may switch now that I've got a little more money and the EPA has mandated less lubricative qualities in oil (I think less Zinc, but I'm not certain) in an attempt to reduce internal engine friction and increase mileage. The way I see it you'll have no noticeable milage increase but noticeably shorter lived engines.

On the oil question. I've done a lot of study on this and just completed a motorcycle mechanics course. I'm switching to Mobil 1. It's the best oil made and at $4 a quart in dept. stores, it's comparable to regular motorcycle specific oils. It's used extensively in motorcycle racing. Available now in several grades, including 10-30.

Is Mobil 1 100% synthetic?

Yes, Mobil l is 100% synthetic, which makes it almost a perfect lubricant, not subject to the breakdowns that affect fossil varieties.

One warning: never use ANY synthetic during breakin. The rings will not seat correctly because the oil is too slick. What's happenin' slick?

Very true, synthetics are not recommended during break-in periods. Thanks for the reminder.

Read this in MO's requiem for the Bad Boy, and thought BJ might like it: "Harley-Davidson is one of the few manufacturers with the freedom to explore wild design concepts. Almost any motorcycle with a bar and shield on its tank will be viewed by many as legitimate. The bike will hold its value and it won't be seen as a risky purchase, so let's hope H-D uses this freedom. No one wants a cruiser future full of only fat, slow, 1940's-styled bikes." If they follow this course, then there will be an answer to the title question that not even Marc can defame!

It's true. Looking at the new Cycle World (great article, "Sunday Ride"), the ads are for fatbike cruisers and at first glance they all look the same except for the "VStar".

Frank, you can have the V-Star, even our dealer said JO was smart for buying the Intruder 800 over the new V-Star, to heavy, much less motor and to streched out. JO bought a leftover 97 for $5,700 dollars right at the price of a new 98 "Custom" version of the Star. I have to look at the fact that it seems the "Sportbike" is making a real comeback, every model and maker went all out for 98. Even Yamaha kicked butt with the new YZF-R1. I expect Harley-Davidson to do what they do best, "EVOLUTION, NOT REVALUTION". Expect radical things from Buell in the future (possible switch to a VR1000 type motor) but H-D won't do any real drastic changes untill the "desire" for their style of bikes goes way down and I don't see that happening anytime soon. (Wicked rumor, Buell switching to a new Yamaha V-twin FI engine soon!!). Tailwinds, BJ

Look for HD to bump up the cc's on their motors in the near future, and introduce fuel-injection on cruiser models. As far as Buell, yes, the VR1000 would be a distinct possibility. The Yamaha motor? About as likely as Sadaam winning the Nobel Peace Prize! Flying Pigs!

BJ, have you seen the new V-Star Custom (which isn't available until March)? It is lighter with a lower seat height than the V-Star Classic. It can't match the Intruder 800 off the line, but can in a roll-on from 40-60 in passing situations. The 650 engine may be smaller than the Shadows, Vulcans and Intruders (750-800 range), but tests show it outperforms in the mid speed roll-on tests. IMHO, the Custom is the best looking mid-size cruiser on the market (but you'd have a wait a few more months to get it). I saw a couple of em painted up real nice at the Intl Motoshow a couple of weeks ago. You can't go wrong with the Intruder 800 though, it's a great bike for the money..Happy New Years riding and hope to see you and Jo this June when I'm cruising Colorado.

Kevin, I've only seen the "custom" version on a Euro-Tv show I watched, it look pretty cool. The problem for JO is the same as on the Honda VLX 600 Cruiser, the seat height is not the problem, it's the "strech" to the rider pegs. Those are the same on both the Classic and Custom V-Stars. Humm, I test rode a V-Star classic and I can tell you now that next to JO's Intruder it was a total "dog" in the power deptment!! Maybe it wasn't set up right but this is a real good shop and her unbroken in 800 Intruder wants to leap forward with any slight pull on the throttle. So Iam a little amazed that your stats say it's so good. Hey, let us know when your sailing thru and the Steak is on us! Tailwinds, BJ

I was just trying to remember when I did the "Experiment" with the Castol... must have been about 18 years ago, I got a Kawi KZ750 Twin from the person I eventually bought the Z1R from... He told me it was all that he had ever run in it and so on those rare occassions that my 17 year old brain remembered that oil was important, that is what I bought... It's all I've used since. I did "Upgrade" to Semi-Synthetic after reading an article pronouncing it's advantages, so it has been Castrol Semi ever since. Good point about break-ins though... Course that would be for the person that can buy one that needs broke in.... $1.25 a quart and problem free for 18 (or so) years. Incidently, Western Auto Semi 20-50 IS Castrol refined... (learned that from Jon's retired buddy). And I am going to try the Dura Lube in the Van with this oil change... It has 137,000 without any thing special, and still runs great... maybe I can push it to 200,000 Well, this will probably be the last weekend on, got to get packing as we ready ourselves for the move to Alabama... Get your digs in before Sunday night as I will be off-line for at least 2 weeks come Monday the 5th.

Shane, good luck with the move, nice thing about being in the southeastern part of the US, you so close to Daytona, Road Atlanta, etc. Sometimes living in Colorado is like living on a Island. It's at least 1000 miles to any of the major motocycling events that happen each year in the US. Tailwinds, BJ

Okay, so I'm sitting here thinking about this oil thing and it dawns on me that someone may have actually looked into this whole debate.. BANG what do I come up with?? Have a look here: http://www.ll.net/XS-XJ/stories/mcnoil94.htm Sticking with the Castrol!!! hehehe

Actually may switch to Mobil 1.... hehehe

Shane, beautiful article. What more needs to be said about oil. As usual, MCN lays it all down for us to see. Mobil 1 it is. Wonder if anyone has seen it for less than $4 a quart. Also wonder if 10-40 wouldn't be the best range.

Shane, Excellent article. This should put to rest many of the overstated claims by the motorcycle oil pushers. I have been using automotive oil in motorcycles ever since I started riding them with no diverse effects. I always change my oil every 1000 to 2000 miles depending on conditions. Hoop

It won't put these claims to rest. Not many people will ever see this article, and even fewer will believe it (or allow themselves to not be swayed by pushy salesmen even when they have read the piece). No, the motorcycle oil companies will continue to do just fine.

"Pushy Sales People??" If one goes to the Automotive store to buy Automotive oil, one should never see a "Pushy Sales Person". I have occasionally seen Mobil 1 in "By the Case" Sales.... I will probably stick with the Castrol Semi, since I have never had any problems with it, and I prefer the 20/50 because of the high heat situations experienced in a M/C engine. The article was to strictly educate those here... I think Jon is right, M/C oil labelers will have continued success... at their customers expen e (good 'ol Free Enterprise, "Let the Buyer Beware".) Glad ya'll liked it Shane

Thanks for the reference on the oil, Shane. I got a chuckle out of the reference to the overstatements and mumbo-jumbo of the oil marketing departments. I'm an ad man and you wouldn't believe the pressure we get get from some of our clients to puff up an average product's claims. I've been riding some since "the incident" on the few days we've had when the weather has been clear. I don't know what all this hopping up Harley engines is about. I got all I can handle and then some. I could use some advice from a couple of you that ride these things. I have ordered a new sissy bar to replace the one I bent. On the 1987 FLHS this is also used as the front suspension air resovoir. When I make the replacement I am supposed to pump it back up to between 10 to 15 lbs of pressure. Harley sells a pump made for this for around $50.00. There has got to be a cheap way to rig a common bicycle pump to do this. Any suggestions?

I love that high power band that you all hate so much. Your bike starts climbing steady then all of a sudden hits the power band and you take off like a rocket and it feels like the front end is about to lift. It sneeks up and even suprises you. Plus this higher power band gives you better top end to satisfy all you speed deamon, adrenaline junkies like myself. I believe in hitting at least 100mph everymorning. And that is on a 1 mile stretch of backroads.

Do you commute with your bike, NightHawk750?