You can ftp frontpage webs, but some of the features like themes, counters,
etc. won't work unless the webserver is Frontpage enabled. You can edit
navigation bars and themes in Frontpage with some simple steps.
To edit a theme, open the Themes dialog box again and click the Modify
button. When you do, the dialog box will change to reveal a new row of
buttons. The first three buttons (Colors, Graphics, and
Text) let you access the various theme elements.
The rest of the detailed instructions on changing themes you'll find at
http://www.microsoft.com/INSIDER/frontpage2000/articles/robots.htm
You can change graphics, change the text that appears as part of the
graphics, and change colors and backgrounds. In other words, you can
develop your own custom themes.